Yes, and no less ... Rather, even more, since it all started with a brilliant thought that came to mind, you will not remember anyone, a week before the day D.
Set the day D on Saturday July 13 2002 (since my wife and I are working, despite the summer), but, with the proviso, that “we will see according to the weather,” although the weather has been roasting for two weeks and indecent temperature: 30-35 ° C.
It was also decided to get to Kanev by “Rising” - I am so lucky It fell out 10 years ago, and my wife did not travel in this way. This added intrigue to an already welcome walk.
As a prudent man, I kiss Wednesday I searched the Internet for something about Kanev, traveling on “Voskhodah”, schedules of buses and riverboats, descriptions of attractions etc.
Unfortunately, we have a good Internet experience, but it’s bad to post information about us. Very good site - he helped me not for the first time, to find a phone River Station helped, and the most valuable - the story "".I am sincerely grateful to the authors of this work, since they went where they were going pass weThere was another article (" Evgenia Bruslinovsky), which left a dual impression: she scared and attracted. Need to see everything yourself!
In addition to information from the Internet, the Route scheme “On the Dnieper” was also published in the distant and cloudless 1985, whose age does not detract from its merits. Only in it I found the scheme of the Kanev National Museum-Reserve of T. Shevchenko. with all the sights. Looking ahead, I will say that the modern equivalent, Alas, not even in the Reserve ...
Yes, now, as a prudent man, read a material and tormented by a bad premonition, on Thursday morning went to the cashier of the River Station for tickets.
I must say that now River Station It is a rather pitiful sight - earlier here life was beating with the key: “Rockets” and “Voskhod” went with the frequency of commuter trains, went and moored cruise ships from the Lower Gardens and Desna, and Rusanovsky Gardens, and from the Kiev Sea, drove back and forth very small trams, and now all this is not ... There are hour walks along the Dnieper (10 UAH / person), there are 3 hour walk in the Kiev Sea (20 UAH / person) and cruise “Sunrise” to Tarasova mountains (14.35 UAH / person). It is for him that he is open from 7 to 12 in the morning on the second floor of the train station.
On Thursday at 8 am I arrived at the station with a secret desire to look at the departure of "Sunrise", which will go and for us. It is called “Captain V. Zagorodko” and has quite a decent look. Little after watching the boarding, I noticed that some passengers show tickets, and some are not. Noting this for himself, nevertheless, he went to the cashier and without a queue (well what kind Is there a queue?) I bought two tickets for Saturday to Taras Mountain. With tickets, something safer and calmer. By the way, on Thursday on Saturday, almost all the tickets were sold - got 64 and 65 seats (this is on the right side at the end, near buffet, which, however, does not work) and left five tickets. Well done! During!!
“Captain V. Zagorodko” left that day, 13 minutes late - Slavic the soul does not endure haste.
I called my wife and was pleased with the fact of purchase tickets - everything, now our rest is rapidly approaching and becoming inevitable!
July 13, 2002 (a bit ominous number, right?) We got up at 6 am, ate, collected a few things prepared for the trip and at 7:05 came out from home. Remember this time - it was then that our rest began ...
We took quite a few things - mostly these are “consumables” and “peripherals” in computer terms. The most The main “consumables” are, you guessed it, money (yes, without them, unfortunately, almost nowhere), except for them they took a bottle of water from the refrigerator, fruit, roasted peanuts. Of course, you can take a vodka with beer, but then there is the danger of negating all the cultural and educational goals of the trip.
“Peripherals” include a camera, a swimsuit and swimming trunks, an umbrella, a player, a book and the very Itinerary “Along the Dnieper”.
At 7:50 we were at the River Station. From afar one could see a crowd of young people with backpacks and girlfriends. They came without tickets, but with a great desire to leave - apparently lazy or there was no time. Having made our way through the dense rows to the gangway, we showed tickets and took our seats. We got a good companion Uncle elderly.
When everyone loaded with tickets, they began to slowly let the hares. They immediately occupied places in the canteen and on the top platform, from where they were driven by a sailor (who, judging by everything and minder).
Cast off 10 minutes later, taking far not everyone.
I just relaxed and believed in the beginning of the rest, only “Sunrise” accelerated and went out on the wings, as they sat down on the belly again, the motor mechanics ran on, again they grunted the engine, and we, not having reached the bridge a little bit, turned around and slowly went back to pier 13 ...
Do you believe in the bad properties of the number 13? And when these two numbers?
At 8:25, moored back. Saturday, 13, pier number 13 ...
Unloading was faster and more organized. the captain apologized for the outdated equipment (our “Sunrise” is done far and not cloudless 1986), promised a replacement ship and proudly took his ship in the bowels of the port.
At 9 came another “Sunrise” - “Stakhorsky OP ”and we habitually started landing. She differed from rehearsal only in that that here the captain himself checked the tickets, although everything was loaded again. Go!
Actually, “Sunrises” are as many as three, really two engines (and now one, probably) ... A lot of things sold ... This is our neighbor enlightened.
Cast off, accelerated, passed all Kiev bridges, all is well, rest still started!
We sit comfortably, there is a lot of legroom, easy the breeze through the cabin, looking at the scenery pleasant ... Beauty ...
Right bank is not everywhere higher and steeper left-to Ukrainka they are almost the same. All sorts of beaches, houses, “chestnut”, as my wife said (well, I realized that water lilies!) - it is interesting to watch.
A neighbor reported that on a weekday (except Mondays and Tuesdays) “Sunrise” leaves with 10-15 empty seats - if there is opportunity, better to go on a weekday.
At 9:50 Ukrainka-Dnepr became significantly wider and the left bank is almost not visible. At the 70th buoy caught beautiful sand cliffs, even a desire to photograph them, later it turned out that sandy There are quite a few cliffs further. No need to rush.
At 10:20 they turned into the gulf - Rzhishchev. Five people came out, one woman came in and back on the road ...
In Rzhyshcheve, nothing has changed since I was there 10 years ago. Same pier and same beach to the left.
Travel time runs fast and completely. does not tire - the main thing to be supported in time.
10:45 - Khodorov. Although I used to be here but again surprised the color of the water - yellowish-green. Mooring again, parking minutes five and off again. Another 15 people turned out. Progress is evident.It's getting freer and freer.
11: 20- Grigorovka. Passengers like the wind blown away. Most hares are out. There are only sessile. It became so free that the opportunity go up to without fear of being inadvertently pushed overboard to take pictures, smoke, hares and curious.
My wife gladly accepted the offer and we went upstairs. On the way, you have to wade through the queue to the toilet. (then it became clear why it is big and slow - it turned out that it does not work a lock on the door. So ...) There is quite a strong wind, but much more comfortable a place to contemplate the surroundings (and they are worth it!). Dnepr here has become much wider and formed Kanevskoe reservoir. After some time, moved to one from the side exits, there is not so blowing, but the same in the fresh air. Meanwhile we approached Kanev and the gateway.
The gateway, I think, is almost not the only place on a flat river where its power is felt. And the gateway It is of interest to most people, although in itself only the first is interesting. once - for the first time everything is much more interesting!
At 11:50 came to the gateway. “Sunrise” stuck to clusters of curious, closed the gate and began the lock. After 15 minutes it's all over.
Oddly enough were disappointed. Appeared Kanev. Yes, the difference in levels before and after the dam, according to various estimates, is 7-8 meters. Behind the gate of the gateway, we were met by a self-propelled barge assigned in Kherson.
Unfortunately, the river traffic situation (both passenger and freight) deplorable. For all the way from Kiev to Kanev we met: a passenger liner, 2nd barges (in Kiev and Kanawa), and a dozen two motor boats. ... They were locked alone, although earlier (in the early 90s) and above and below large queues of ships accumulated, and the gateway was blocked to capacity. It's sad.
12: 10- Kanev. A large number of swimmers teenagers right on the wharf and around. Left almost everything. Man left 20-30. These are people who arrived, like us, to see the Kaniv National Museum-Reserve T.G.Shevchenko. Everything, the next stop is the final one - Tarasova Gora.
12: 20- Here we are on the spot. On the road, not tired, eat lunch early, back let's go by bus. First impressions: beautiful, clean, but somehow uncomfortable (?). If it were not for the advanced group of tourists who confidently set off to the right, it would be incomprehensible where to go (we would certainly have found, but this is another). Many local - selling souvenirs near the closed pavilion, cute grannies tempting to buy a bunch of flowers for Taras (and making so that it is impossible to buy, and the price of 50 kopecks after Kiev seems unreal), a woman inviting to return to the kebabs (as I remembered her later).
Further, at the beginning of the stairs, they also sold ice cream, souvenirs, booklets, but nothing caught the soul and the wallet - nothing special, unfortunately ... And people were ready to buy something such, in memory of this magnificent place.
Began to climb. In general, this long, winding hill the staircase that leads to the museum itself is definitely a landmark. What are the beautiful benches on the platforms every 15-30 steps! I, By the way, I counted 340 steps (well, there ± 1). Somewhere in the middle there Fountain "Lilea", as we were informed by our old assistant (Route scheme “On the Dnieper”) because no inscriptions or plates were found. Upstairs waited even more pleasant surprise - a large area for recreation and drinking fountains water
The territory of the museum-reserve produces good impression. Everywhere is cleaned, painted, beautiful flower beds are broken, laid tracks.
Right from the stairs we went to the lookout. the site where you can spend the whole day, contemplating the left and right banks, the Dnieper and, even, passed quite recently the gateway. Behind the viewing platform is a monument T.G. Shevchenko. They came up to him, laid flowers ... This is the eternal place of photographing. of all tourists, but looking at some, I want to remind you - a man is buried here, and this needs to be taken into account.
We looked at the memorial oaks (they the same without plates), accidentally noting to the left of the museum building a kiosk with the inscription “Ticket office” went there. We bought tickets (2.5 horn each) and Kanva Avenue (for 2 horn). There are a lot of different things, but something like that ... Yes, and there is almost nothing about Kanev. In general, you can order a tour It will cost, it seems, 15 UAH, but is it worth it?
Near the entrance to the museum is a cross, which stood on the tomb of Shevchenko to the present monument. Well, that he survived.
At the entrance they asked if we have tickets, and after our honest “there is” sent to the second floor to the beginning of the exposure.
After ten halls, it became clear that Yevgeny Bruslinovsky in his article "", yet right - the Kanev Museum for a number of objective and subjective the reasons are not so representative, or something ... Of course there is something to see, but there are really few originals. And the trouble is not the leadership of the museum. But still, in spite of everything, it was interesting! Leaving the museum, walked around the building, sat in a garden with apple trees, walked along the alley with oaks, planted back in 1961, went to the grave of IA Yadlovsky - the caretaker of the grave of Shevchenko with 1883 to 1933, looked at the house in which he lived (two small rooms with hay on the floor and rushniki on the walls, in which all the furniture and personal things). Once again stood on the viewing platform - now not so much beauty, how many lead clouds, rapidly approaching from the North.
By 14:20 we’ve finished with the museum, walks, photographs and by the way it started to rain ... And this despite the fact that there was no week in Kiev two or three. Having waited the strongest beginning, under an umbrella (don't love after that wear extra things) went down to the bus stop. Where is she I don't I will say if we found, you will find it too!
Buses to Kanev go in 45-50 minutes of every hour, the fare is 50 kopecks. To the bus station, drive about 15-20 minutes, mainly along the coast, with a large the number of stops, at each of which people came to the beach.Our bathing accessories did not come in handy - quite heavy rain and no in sight of normal beaches did their job.
At the bus station we looked at the schedule, they looked after a bus to Kiev (they cleverly chose a shorter way), which starts at 5:30 pm Since there was more than enough time left, we decided to do this: first the sights, then dinner.
After asking the locals where the Armored Train is here (it should be noted that not everyone knows where one of the few landmark is located) boarded a minibus (60 kopecks), warned everyone three times that “to the armored train” and already after 20 minutes (including the repair of the broken bus - remember, the 13th?) somewhere close to him. A man came out with us, and as if from the place of exit is a landmark not seen, asked him. I will tell you a secret that appeal to local people need help extremely carefully and only as a last resort. It is quite a harmless question "so, where is the armored train" drove a man into suspiciously serious thoughts ... At the first moment I felt like a partisan asking at the commandant, where is the bridge to be blown up?A man asked - “what address do you need ???”, and when I heard that we need a monument, greatly surprised, yet showed the right direction. All this happened under rain, on hospitable Kanevsky streets, which looked like small but mighty mountain rivers periodically sprayed by passing cars. To cross on the other side of the road was quite difficult, but necessary! We did see him - freshly painted in a jolly green color (I wonder what color it is was when he left the factory?) and surrounded by cows. They read a memorial plaque, walked around (for some reason my wife thought that on the other hand he was not like that). Contrary to expectations, graphitti could not be found, as, however, and a significant difference between the arms of the left and right sides ..
After that, we slowed down a hefty Ikarus (it turned out that this can be done between stops) and went to Assumption Cathedral, a monument of architecture of the XII century. It is interesting not only by age, but also by the fact that in it for two days stood the coffin of T.G. Shevchenko (what is the inscription on the stove). Finding a cathedral turned out to be easier than an armored train, the bus conductor suggested. I am grateful to her not only for this - when I got off the bus from my pocket a wallet fell out (there was quite a lot of money, cards, phones and much more valuable rubbish) and she, noticing my loss, did not keep silent, but called and pointed out on this. And she remembered that she had dazzling white teeth.
At 15:40 we were there, but first, despite the rain and wet feet, we walked through the park, saw the Memorial of Glory, found behind the cathedral the grave of AP Gaidar, looked at the cathedral, which produced good impression, despite the complete opposite of the newly built in Kiev religious buildings - not at all gold and pompousness. Go inside did not dare, since we have my shorts and my wife's head covered in the asset. It's a pity…
In front of the cathedral there is a museum of folk decorative art (was closed) and the beginning of Shevchenko’s mournful journey to the Black mountain
At the bus station back on some sort of local bus. It turned out at the checkout break and you can finally have lunch!
Here I was unpleasantly amazed perhaps for the first time during the entire trip - there was nowhere and nothing to it ... That is, of course, you can eat, but to eat ...
Back in Kiev, I planned to eat well- with salad, first, second, and compote. And he was ready both mentally and physiologically do it (really wanted to eat). And to us, spoiled by Kiev, with its branched and a diverse network of cafes, canteens, fast food, barbecues and “hens on the swings ”, there is a hot dog or pasties with beer just did not want to! How not to and in a clean cafe right at the bus station. There is no guilt in that kind uncles drinking beer with vodka and biting ram, just from childhood stayed superstitious fear of establishments at train stations. Set off to produce survey work. On the streets, for some reason, unusually few people, which further complicated our task. Shelter we found in the cafe “Parus” (if I’m not mistaken) where the “food out” was: pasties, dumplings, dumplings and coffee with tea. Alcohol does not count. So we had lunch ... dumplings and coffee. A long wait and poor menu could not brighten up any good service, Nor a pleasant interior with a fountain and live fish. Leaving 9 UAH. gone for the tickets.
At 16:50, tickets were purchased. 10.24 UAH for each and our two places. Then still, foolishly, hoped that the people there will be a little - tickets to the very beginning of the salon.Went for food - as you can without buns, soda water, nuts ... We sat at the bus station, go somewhere desires No - the rain pours with might and main!
The bus went on schedule, great This surprised us ... To AS “Rzhishchev” (18:50) we arrived quite well. Yes, I forgot, the rain ended on the outskirts of Kanev. Despite the heat and An old domestic bus can go. From the pros: curtains, open sunroof, “reclining” chairs. Of the minuses: slow driving, very frequent stops. Like this. And right in Rzhyshchiv, we saw two squirrels chasing each other!
From Staek to Novoukrainka it was awful to go. At all stops stuffed to the people to the eyeballs and even above it, it started to rain again, and it was necessary to close the hatches in the cabin stuffy, someone lost consciousness, someone flowed by the collar ... It began to go badly.
But it also passed when we left the track. of strategic importance - Concha Zaspa - Kiev. All, soon!
At 20:45, we took the Vydubychi metro station, and at 21:20 we were already at home. Tired exhausted but satisfied.
14 and 14 hours of rest, or Kiev - Kanev - Kiev
14 and 14 hours of rest, or Kiev - Kanev - Kiev
14 and 14 hours of rest, or Kiev - Kanev - Kiev
14 and 14 hours of rest, or Kiev - Kanev - Kiev
14 and 14 hours of rest, or Kiev - Kanev - Kiev